| | 后妃命婦... : |
|
| |
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
周制，追師掌王后之首服，為副、編、次，追衡、笄，為九嬪及外內命婦之首服，以待祭祀、賓客。 |
| | According to Zhou dynasty regulations, the Zhui Shi (Master of Hair Ornaments) was in charge of the head ornaments for the queen. These included wigs, braided hairpieces, and secondary styles, as well as zhuiheng (ornamental hairpins) and jisi (hairpins), which were also provided as head ornaments for the nine consorts and female officials inside and outside the palace to be used during rituals and official receptions.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
漢制，太皇太后、皇太后入廟，蔮簪珥。簪以纟瑁為擿，長一尺，端為華勝，上為鳳凰爵，以翡翠為毛羽，下有白珠，垂黃金鑷。左右一橫簪之，以安蔮。諸簪珥皆同制，其擿有等級焉。皇后謁廟，假結，步搖，簪珥。步搖以黃金為山題，貫白珠為桂枝相繆，一爵九華，熊、武、赤羆、天鹿、辟邪、南山豐大特六獸，詩所謂「副笄六珈」者。諸爵獸皆以翡翠為毛羽，金題，白珠璫繞，以翡翠為華云。貴人助蠶制，大手結，墨玳瑁，又加簪珥。長公主加步搖，公主大手結，皆有簪珥。公、卿、列侯、中二千石、二千石夫人，紺繒蔮，黃金龍首銜白珠，魚須擿，長一尺，為簪珥。 |
| | Under Han dynasty regulations, the Taihuangtaihou (Grand Empress Dowager) and Huangtaihou (Empress Dowager), when entering the temple for rituals, wore zan zan er (ornamental hairpins and earrings). The zan was made with a base of mei, measuring one chi in length. At its tip was hua sheng (ornamental flower), and above it was shaped like a phoenix or jiao bird, with feathers crafted from feicui (kingfisher feathers). Below were white pearls, and hanging beneath them were golden xie pendants. One was inserted horizontally on each side to secure the zan in place. All hairpins and earrings followed the same design, but their bases (tizhi) varied according to rank. When the empress paid homage at the temple, she wore jiajie (false hair braid), buyao (ornamental dangling hairpin), zan and er (hairpins and earrings). The buyao was made with a golden shuti (mountain-shaped base), through which white pearls were threaded to form osmanthus branches intertwined in a pattern. It featured one jiao bird and nine flowers, as well as six beasts: xiong (bear), wu, chixi (red bear), tianlu (heavenly deer), bixie, and the Nan Shan fengda te (a large bull from the southern mountains). This is what the Book of Songs refers to as "fu ji liu jia" (six jade ornaments for hairpins). All the jiao birds and beasts were adorned with feicui (kingfisher feather) for their feathers, golden ti (bases), white pearl dang (pendants) wrapped around them, and decorated with feicui flowers. The noble lady assisting in the sericulture ceremony wore da shoujie (large knot hairstyle), heidaimao (black tortoiseshell ornaments), and also added zan and er. The Crown Princess wore buyao, while the princess wore da shoujie; both had zan and er ornaments. The wives of gong (ministers), qing, liehou (feudal lords), zhongerqianshi and erqienshi officials wore gan zeng zan (hairpins made from dark purple silk), with golden dragon heads holding white pearls. The fishbone tizhi bases were one chi long, forming the zan and er ornaments.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
魏制，貴人、夫人以下助蠶，皆大手髻，七颂蔽髻，黑玳瑁，又加簪珥。九嬪以下五颂，世婦三颂。諸王妃、長公主，大手髻，七颂蔽髻。其長公主得有步搖，皆有簪珥。公特進列侯卿校代婦、中二千石以下夫人，紺繒蔮，黃金龍首銜白珠，魚須擿，長一尺，為簪珥。 |
| | Under Wei dynasty regulations, noble ladies, fu ren (ladies of rank), and those below them assisting in the sericulture ritual all wore da shouji (large knot hairstyles). They also had seven song ornaments covering the ji (bun), black daimao, and added zan and er hairpins. Ladies of rank below the nine ping wore five song, while shifu (attendant ladies) wore three song. The consorts of feudal princes and Crown Princesses wore da shouji hairstyles with seven song ornaments covering the ji. Among them, the Crown Princess was allowed to wear buyao; all of them had zan and er hair ornaments. The wives of officials such as gong tejin, liehou, qing jiao daifu (military and civil officers), zhongerqianshi, and those below wore gan zeng zan hairpins with golden dragon heads holding white pearl pendants. The fishbone tizi bases were one chi in length, forming the zan er ornaments.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
晉依前代，皇后首飾：假髻，步搖，簪珥。步搖以黃金為山題，貫白珠為枝相繆，八爵九華，熊、武、赤羆、天鹿、辟邪、南山豐大特六獸。諸爵獸皆以翡翠為毛羽，金題，白珠璫繞，以翡翠為花。元康六年詔改。 |
| | The Jin dynasty followed earlier dynasties' regulations: the empress's head ornaments included jiaji (false braid), buyao, zan and er. The buyao was made of golden shuti (mountain-shaped bases), with white pearls threaded to form intertwining branches. It featured eight jiao birds and nine flowers, along with six beasts: xiong, wu, chixi, tianlu, bixie, and Nan Shan fengdaitte. All the jiao birds and beast figures were adorned with feicui for their feathers, had golden ti (bases), pearl dang pendants wrapped around them, and were decorated with feicui flowers. An edict was issued in the sixth year of Yuankang (296 AD) to make changes.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
宋依漢制，太后入廟祭祀，首飾翦氂幗。皇后親蠶，首飾假髻，步搖，八雀九華，加以翡翠。復依晉法，皇后十二颂，步搖，大手髻。公主、三夫人大手髻，七颂蔽髻。公夫人，五颂。代婦三颂。其長公主得有步搖。公特進列侯夫人、二千石命婦年長者，紺繒幗。 |
| | The Song dynasty followed Han dynasty regulations: when the Empress Dowager entered the temple for sacrifices, her head ornaments included jianmao guai. When the empress personally participated in the sericulture ceremony, her head ornaments consisted of a jiaji (false hair braid), a buyao with eight que birds and nine flowers decorated with feicui. They again followed the Jin dynasty regulations: the empress wore twelve song, a buyao, and a da shouji hairstyle. Princesses and the wives of third-rank officials wore da shouji hairstyles and seven-song ji covers. The wife of a gong (minister) wore five song. Daifu (attending ladies) wore three song. The Crown Princess was allowed to wear a buyao. The wives of high-ranking officials such as gong te jin, liehou (feudal marquises), and erqianshi (2000-dan officials) who were older wore gan zeng guai.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
齊因之。公主會見大手髻，不易舊法。 |
| | The Qi dynasty followed the same regulations. Princesses, when meeting in official settings, wore da shouji hairstyles without altering previous regulations.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
陳依前制，皇后謁廟，首飾假髻，步搖，簪珥。步搖以黃金為山題，貫白珠，為枝相繆，八爵九華，熊、虎、赤羆、天鹿、辟邪、南山豐大特六獸。諸爵獸皆以翡翠為毛羽，金題，白珠璫繞，以翡翠為華。開國公侯太夫人，大手髻，七颂蔽髻。九嬪及公夫人，五颂。世婦三颂。其長公主得有步搖。公、特進、列侯、卿、校、中二千石夫人，紺繒幗，黃金龍首銜白珠，魚須擿，長一尺，為簪珥。 |
| | The Chen dynasty followed earlier regulations: when the empress visited the temple, her head ornaments included a jiaji (false braid hairstyle), buyao, and zan er. The buyao was made with golden shuti (mountain bases), through which white pearls formed intertwining branches. It included eight jiao birds, nine flowers, and six beasts: xiong (bear), hu (tiger), chixi (red bear), Tianlu (heavenly deer), Bixie, and the six Nan Shan Fengdaitte (southern mountain great bull). All the jiao birds and animal figures were adorned with feicui feathers, had golden ti bases, pearl dang pendants around them, and were decorated using feicui flowers. The Tai Fu Ren (great ladies) of kai guo gong hou (marquises and dukes who founded the state) wore da shouji hairstyles, with seven-song ji covers. The nine ping and the fu ren of gong (minister's wife) wore five song. Shifu wore three song. The Crown Princess was allowed to have a buyao. The wives of gong, tejin (special advancement), liehou (feudal lord), qing (minister), jiao (military officer), and zhongerqianshi officials wore gan zeng guai, with golden dragon heads holding white pearls, fishbone tizi bases one chi in length, serving as zan er hair ornaments.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
後魏天興六年，詔有司始制冠冕，各依品秩，以示等差，然未能皆得舊法。 |
| | In the sixth year of Tianxing (393 AD) during the reign of the Houwei dynasty, an edict was issued to the relevant officials ordering them to begin making hats and crowns. Each rank followed its respective level in order to demonstrate distinctions in status; however, not all were able to fully adhere to ancient regulations.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
北齊依前制，皇后首飾假髻，步搖，十二颂，八雀九華。內命婦以上，蔽髻，唯以颂數花釵多少為品秩。二品以上金玉飾，三品以下金飾。內命婦、左右昭儀、三夫人視一品，假髻，九颂；三品五颂蔽髻；四品三颂；五品一颂。又有宮人女官：第二品七颂蔽髻，三品五颂，四品三颂，五品一颂，六品、七品大手髻，八品、九品偏髾髻。皇太子妃，假髻，步搖，九颂。郡長君七颂蔽髻。太子良娣視九嬪、女侍中，五颂。內外命婦、宮人女官從蠶，則各依品次，還著蔽髻。 |
| | The Bei Qi dynasty followed previous regulations: the empress's head ornaments consisted of jiaji (false braids), buyao, twelve song, and eight que birds with nine flowers. Those ranked as neiminfu (court ladies) or above wore ji covers, and their ranks were distinguished solely by the number of song ornaments and floral hairpins. Those ranked second grade and above used gold and jade decorations, while those below third grade used only gold decorations. Neiminfu (court ladies), zuoyou zhaoyi, and the three fu ren were ranked as first grade; they wore jiaji hairstyles with nine song ornaments; third-grade officials wore ji covers with five song ornaments; fourth-grade officials had three song ornaments; fifth-grade officials wore one song ornament. There were also palace attendants and female officials: second-grade officials wore ji covers with seven song ornaments, third-grade had five song, fourth-grade three song, fifth-grade one song. Sixth- and seventh-grade officials wore da shouji styles; eighth- and ninth-grade officials wore pian sao hairstyles. The consort of the Crown Prince wore a jiaji hairstyle, buyao, and nine song ornaments. The consort of a marquess (jun zhang jun) wore ji covers with seven-song ornaments. The Crown Prince's liangdi, ranked as the nine ping and nushizhong (female attendants), wore five song ornaments. When female officials inside or outside the palace and palace attendants participated in sericulture ceremonies, they each followed their ranks and wore ji covers accordingly.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
後周制，皇后首飾，花釵十有二樹。諸侯之夫人，亦皆以命數為之節。三妃、三公夫人以下，又各依其命。一命再命者，又俱以三為節。 |
| | Under the Houzhou dynasty regulations, the empress's head ornaments featured twelve trees of floral hairpins (hua chai). The wives of feudal lords also followed rank-based distinctions in their adornments. Ladies ranked as san fei (three consorts), the wives of three gong officials, and those below also followed their respective ranks accordingly. Those with one or two official appointments were all regulated in groups of three.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
隋因之。皇后首飾，花十二樹；皇太子妃、公主、王妃、三師三公及公夫人、一品命婦，並九樹；侯夫人、二品命婦，並八樹；伯夫人、三品命婦，並七樹；子夫人、代婦及皇太子昭訓、四品以上官命婦，並六樹；男夫人、五品命婦，並五樹；女御及皇太子良娣，三樹。 |
| | The Sui dynasty followed these regulations. The empress's head ornaments had twelve trees of flowers; the Crown Prince's consort, princesses, feudal princes' consorts, the wives of san shi (three teachers), san gong (three high officials), and gong fu ren, as well as first-grade female officials, all wore nine trees; the wives of hou (marquis) and second-grade female officials wore eight trees; bo fu ren (wives of bo, a noble title), third-grade female officials had seven trees; zi fu ren (wife of zi, a lesser noble rank), daifu and the Crown Prince's zhaoxun attendants, as well as female officials of fourth grade or higher, wore six trees; nan fu ren (wife of nan, a noble title) and fifth-grade female officials had five trees; nuyu (palace attendants) and the Crown Prince's liangdi wore three trees.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
大唐武德中制令，皇后褘衣，首飾花釵十二樹，餘各有差。開元中，又定品命。其制度，並見開元禮序例。 |
| | During the Wude period of the Da Tang dynasty, regulations stipulated that when the empress wore hui yi (ceremonial robes), her head ornaments included twelve trees of floral hairpins; others had varying distinctions. During the Kaiyuan period, official ranks and regulations were further standardized. These regulations are all detailed in the preface of the Kaiyuan Li (Kaiyuan Rites).
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
|
| |
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
周制，內司服掌王后之六服：褘衣，揄翟，闕翟，鞠衣，展衣，褖衣。素沙。辨內外命婦之服：鞠衣，展衣，褖衣。素沙。 |
| | According to Zhou dynasty regulations, the Nei Sifu was in charge of the six robes for the queen: Huiyi, Yuzhai, Quezhai, Juyi, Zhanyi, and Tuan yi. Susha. Distinguish the robes of inner and outer court ladies: Juyi, Zhanyi (Dan yi), and Tuan yi. Susha.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
漢制，太皇太后、皇太后、皇后入廟服，紺上皁下；蠶服，青上縹下：皆深衣制，隱領袖緣。貴人助蠶服，純縹上下。長公主見會。自公主封君以上皆帶綬，以采組為緄帶，各如其綬色；黃金辟邪首為帶鐍，飾以白珠。公卿列侯、中二千石夫人入廟佐祭者，服皁絹上下；助蠶者，縹絹上下。自二千石夫人以上至皇后，皆以蠶衣為朝服。公主、貴人、妃以上，嫁娶得服錦綺羅縠繒，采十二色，重緣袍。特進列侯以上錦繒，采十二色。六百石以上重練，采九色，禁丹紫紺。三百石以上五采，青絳黃紅綠。二百石以上四采，青黃紅綠。賈人，緗縹而已。 |
| | Under Han dynasty regulations, when the Taihuangtaihou (great grandmother empress dowager), Huangtaihou (empress dowager), and Huanghou (queen) entered ancestral temples for rituals, they wore dark blue tops with black bottoms; for the ceremony of sericulture, they wore blue tops and pink bottoms: all in the deep yi style. The collars, sleeves, and hems were trimmed with hidden borders. When assisting in the sericulture ceremony, Guiren wore pure pink robes for both top and bottom. Changgongzhu (princess) attended meetings. From the rank of Gongzhu and Feijun upward, all wore sashes; they used colored silk cords as waistbands, each matching the color of their respective sash; the belt hooks were in the shape of Huangjin Bixie (a mythical creature), decorated with white pearls. When the consorts of Gong Qing, Liewou, Zhongerqiashi, and others entered temples to assist in sacrifices, they wore black silk robes for both top and bottom; When assisting with the sericulture ceremony, they wore pink silk robes for both top and bottom. From the consorts of Erqiashi officials upward to the queen, all used their sericulture robes as formal court attire. Princesses, Guiren, Fei and above could wear robes made of brocade, gauze, silk, and other fine fabrics for weddings or marriages; these garments featured twelve colors and double-trimmed paos. Those of the rank Tejin Liewou and above wore brocade robes with twelve-colored patterns. Officials ranked at 600 dan or higher wore double-layered white silk robes, in nine colors; the use of red, purple, and dark blue was prohibited. Officials ranked at 300 dan or higher could wear five-colored garments: blue, crimson, yellow, red, and green. Officials ranked above 200 dan wore four-colored robes: blue, yellow, red, and green. Merchants could wear only xing piao (yellowish-pink) fabrics.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
魏之服制，不依古法，多以文繡。 |
| | The Wei dynasty's clothing regulations did not follow ancient methods, and mostly used embroidered patterns.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
晉依前漢制，皇后謁廟，服皁上皁下；蠶，青上縹下。隱領袖緣。元康六年，詔以純青服。貴人、夫人、貴嬪，是為三夫人，皆金章紫綬。九嬪銀印青綬，佩采詞玉。助蠶之服，純縹為上下。皇太子妃，金璽龜鈕，纁朱綬，佩瑜玉。諸王太妃、妃、諸長公主、公主、封君，金印紫綬，佩山玄玉。自公主、封君以上，皆帶綬，以采組為緄帶，各如其綬色，金辟邪首為帶玦。郡縣公侯太夫人、夫人，銀印青綬，水蒼玉。公特進列卿代婦、中二千石夫人入廟助祭者，皁絹上下；助蠶者，縹絹上下。自二千石夫人以上至皇后，皆以蠶衣為朝服。 |
| | The Jin dynasty followed the system of Former Han: when the queen visited ancestral temples, she wore black tops and black bottoms; for sericulture ceremonies, blue tops with pink bottoms. The collars and sleeves were trimmed with hidden borders. In the sixth year of Yuankang, an edict was issued ordering the wearing of pure blue robes. Guiren, Funv, and Guiping were collectively known as Sanfunv (Three Ladies), all of whom wore gold seals with purple sashes. The nine Ping held silver seals with blue sashes and were adorned with multicolored jade . For the sericulture ceremony, their robes were pure pink for both top and bottom. The consort of the Crown Prince wore a golden seal with a turtle-shaped clasp, a xunzhu sash, and jade pendants. The Taifei (great consorts), Fei (consorts) of the various kings, Zhuchanggongzhu, Gongzhu, and Feijun all wore gold seals with purple sash and jade pendants made from black mountain jade. From the ranks of Gongzhu and Fei jun upward, all wore sash belts; they used colored silk cords for waistbands, each matching their respective sash color, with belt hooks shaped like golden Bixie. The Taifuren and Funv of marquises, counts, and officials at the level of commanderies and counties wore silver seals with blue sash belts and jade made from water-blue stone. The consorts of the Gong, Tejin Lienqing, Dai Fu, Zhongerqiashi officials who entered temples to assist in rituals wore black silk robes for top and bottom; For the sericulture ceremony participants, they wore pink silk garments for both upper and lower parts. From the consorts of officials ranked at 2000 dan upward to the empress, all used their sericulture garments as formal court attire.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
宋制，太后、皇后入廟，服褂颁大衣，謂之褘衣。公主、封君以上皆帶綬，以采組為緄帶，各如綬色。公特進列侯夫人、卿校代婦、二千石命婦年長者，入廟佐祭，皁絹上下；助蠶則青絹上下。自皇后至二千石命婦，皆以蠶衣為朝服。 |
| | Under Song dynasty regulations, when Taihou (empress dowager) and Huanghou (queen) visited ancestral temples, they wore gua ban The "daiyi" was also known as Huiyi. Princesses and Feijun of higher ranks all wore sashes, using colored silk cords as waistbelts, each matching the color of the respective sash. The Funv (consorts) of Gong, Tejin Liewou, Qing Xiao Dai Fu, and Erqiashi Mingu (appointed ladies) who were older assisted in temple sacrifices wearing black silk robes for both upper and lower garments; For the sericulture ceremony, blue silk was worn for both top and bottom. From the empress down to the Mingu of Erqiashi officials, all used their sericulture attire as formal court wear.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
齊因之。褂颁用繡為衣裳，黃綬。貴嬪、夫人、貴人、王太妃、長公主、封君，皆紫綬。六宮、郡公、侯夫人，青綬。 |
| | Qi dynasty followed this practice. Gua ban robes were embroidered, and yellow sashes were worn. Guiping, Funv, Guiren, Wang Taifei, Changgongzhu, and Feijun were all entitled to wear purple sashes. The consorts of the Liu Gong (Six Palaces), Jun gong, and Hou wore blue sashes.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
陳依前制，皇后謁廟，褂颁大衣，皁上皁下，親蠶則青上縹下，隱領袖緣。貴妃、嬪，金章龜鈕，紫授，佩于闐玉，獸頭鞶。九嬪，金章龜鈕，青綬，獸頭鞶，佩采詞玉。婕妤以下，銀印珪鈕，艾綬，獸頭鞶。美人等，銅印環鈕，墨綬，獸頭鞶。 |
| | The Chen dynasty followed previous regulations: when the empress visited ancestral temples, she wore guaban daiyi robes with black tops and bottoms; for sericulture ceremonies, she wore blue tops and pink-bottomed garments, with hidden collars and sleeve trims. Guifei and Ping held gold seals with turtle-shaped clasps, wore purple sashes, were adorned with Yutai jade pendants, and had animal-head-shaped belts. The nine Ping held gold seals with turtle clasps, wore blue sashes, had animal-head-shaped belts, and were adorned with multicolored jades. Jieyu and those of lower ranks wore silver seals with gui-shaped clasps, ai-colored sashes, and animal-head-shaped belts. Meiren and others wore copper seals with ring clasps, black sashes, and animal-headed belts.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
皇太子妃，金璽龜鈕，纁朱綬，佩瑜玉。良娣，銀印珪鈕，佩采詞玉，青綬，獸爪鞶。寶林，佩水蒼玉，餘同。開國公侯太夫人，獸頭鞶，餘同。長公主、公主、封君，金印龜鈕，紫綬，佩山玄玉，獸頭鞶。公主封君以上皆帶綬，以采組為緄帶，各以其綬色，金辟邪首為帶玦。自二千石以上至皇后，皆以蠶衣為朝服。 |
| | The consort of the crown prince wore a golden seal with turtle-shaped clasp, xunzhu-colored sash, and was adorned with yu jade. Liangdi wore silver seals with gui-shaped claps, were adorned with multicolored yu jade pendants, blue sashes, and belts decorated with animal-claw patterns. Baolin wore water-blue jade pendants; the rest was the same. The Taifuren of Kanguo gong and hou wore animal-head-shaped belts; the rest followed the same regulations. Changgongzhu, gongzhu, and feijun wore gold seals with turtle-shaped claps, purple sashes, pendants of black mountain jade, and animal-head belts. Princesses of the rank Feijun and above all wore sashes, with colored silk cords used as waistbands; each matched their respective sash colors, and belt hooks were shaped like golden Bixie. From the rank of Erqiashi upward to the empress, sericulture robes were all used as formal court attire.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
北齊皇后助祭、朝會以褘衣、祠郊禖以揄翟，小宴以闕翟，親蠶以鞠衣，禮見皇帝以展衣，宴居以褖衣。六服俱有蔽膝、織成緄帶。 |
| | In the Beiqi dynasty, when assisting in sacrifices or attending court assemblies, the empress wore Huiyi; for ancestral and land deity ceremonies, Yuzhai was worn; for minor banquets, Quezhai; for sericulture rituals, Juyi; for formal audiences with the emperor, Zhanyi; and for leisurely gatherings at home, Tuan yi. All six robes included a kilt-like garment (bixi) and woven waistbands.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
內外命婦從二品以上，金章，紫綬，服揄翟，雙佩山玄玉。九嬪視三品，銀章，青綬，鞠衣，佩水蒼玉。世婦視四品，銀印，青綬，展衣。八十一御女視五品，銅印，墨綬，褖衣。 |
| | Inner and outer court ladies of the second rank and above wore gold seals, purple sashes, Yuzhai robes, and double pendants made of black mountain jade. The nine Ping were treated as third-rank officials, wearing silver seals, blue sashes, Juyi robes, and pendants made of water-blue jade. Shifu were treated as fourth-rank officials, wearing silver official seals, blue sashes, and Zhanyi robes. The eighty-one Nuyu were treated as fifth-rank officials, wearing copper seals, black sashes, and Tuan yi robes.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
又有宮人女官服：二品闕翟；三品鞠衣；四品展衣；五品、六品褖衣；七品、八品、九品，俱青紗公服。 |
| | There were also robes for palace attendants and female officials: second rank wore Quezhai; third rank, Juyi; fourth rank, Zhanyi; fifth and sixth ranks, Tuan yi; seventh, eighth, and ninth ranks all wore official robes of blue gauze.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
皇太子妃，璽綬佩同皇太子，服揄翟，從蠶則青紗公服。郡長公主、公主、王國太妃、妃，纁朱綬，章服佩同內命婦一品。郡長君，玄朱綬，闕翟，章佩與公主同。郡君、縣主，佩水蒼玉，餘與郡長君同。太子良娣視九嬪服。縣主青朱綬，餘與良娣同。女侍中，假金印紫綬，服鞠衣，佩水蒼玉。縣君銀章，青朱綬，除與女侍中同。太子孺子同世婦。太子家人子同御女。鄉主、鄉君，素朱綬，佩水蒼玉，餘與御女同。 |
| | The empress dowager to the crown prince wore seals, sashes, and pendants identical to those of the crown prince; she donned Yuzhai robes for formal occasions but wore blue gauze official robes during sericulture ceremonies. Princesses of Marquisates, princesses, grand duchesses, and duchesses wore xunzhu sashes; their seals, robes, and pendants were the same as those of first-rank inner court ladies. Princesses of Marquisate rank wore hean zhu sashes and Quezhai robes; their seals and pendants were identical to those worn by princesses. Princesses of marquis rank and county princesses wore pendants made of water-blue jade; the rest was the same as for Princesses of Marquisate. The Liangdi of the crown prince were treated in terms of dress like the nine Ping. County princesses wore qingzhu sashes, and otherwise followed the same style as Liangdi. Female Shizhong officials were granted gold seals and purple sashes for ceremonial purposes, wore Juyi robes, and carried pendants made of water-blue jade. County princesses (Xianjun) wore silver seals and qingzhu sashes; otherwise, they followed the same dress code as female Shizhong. The Ruzi of the crown prince followed the same attire as Shifu. Family members (Jia renzi) of the crown prince followed the dress code of Nuyu. Xiangzhu and Xiangjun wore su zhu sashes, pendants made of water-blue jade, and otherwise followed the dress code of Nuyi.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
外命婦皆如其夫；若夫假章印綬佩，妻則不假。一品、二品服闕翟，三品服鞠衣，四品展衣，五品褖衣。 |
| | Outer court ladies all followed their husbands' ranks; If the husband was granted seals, sashes or pendants for ceremonial purposes, his wife would not be granted them. First and second ranks wore Quezhai, third rank Juyi, fourth rank Zhanyi, fifth rank Tuan yi.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
內外命婦、宮人從蠶，則各依品次，皆服青紗公服。其外命婦，綬帶鞶囊，皆准其夫公服之例。百官之母詔加太夫人者，朝服公服，各與其命婦服同。 |
| | During sericulture ceremonies, both inner and outer court ladies and palace attendants wore blue gauze official uniforms according to their ranks. As for the outer court ladies, sashes, waistbands, and pouches were all based on their husbands' official uniform standards. Mothers of officials who had been specially granted the title "Taifuren" by imperial decree wore court and official uniforms identical to those worn by their respective rank's inner court ladies.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
後周制，皇后之服，十有二等。其翟衣六：從皇帝祀郊禖，享先皇，朝皇太后，則服翬衣；祭陰社，朝命婦，則服揄衣；祭群小祀，受獻繭，則服鷩衣；採桑則服鳪衣；從皇帝見賓客，聽女教，則服鵫衣；食命婦，歸寧，則服鬏衣。俱十有二等，以翬翟為領褾，各十有二。臨婦學及法道門，燕命婦，有時見命婦，則蒼衣；春齊及祭還，則青衣；夏齊及祭還，則朱衣；採桑齊及採桑還，則黃衣；秋齊及祭還，則素衣；冬齊及祭還，則玄衣。自青衣而下，其領褾以相生之色。 |
| | In the Houzhou dynasty, the empress had twelve ranks of attire. Of these, there were six types of Zhaiyi robes: when accompanying the emperor in sacrifices to heaven and earth deities or ancestral rites, or paying homage to the empress dowager, she wore Huiyi; for sacrifices to the deity of land and attending court assemblies with inner court ladies, Yuyi was worn; for minor communal sacrifices or receiving tribute silkworms, she wore Bieyi; when picking mulberry leaves, she wore Fengyi; when accompanying the emperor to receive guests or attend female education sessions, she wore Jueyi; when dining with inner court ladies or returning home for a visit, she wore Jiuyi. All twelve ranks featured Hui and Zhai patterns on the collar and cuffs, each with twelve variations. When visiting female schools or legal halls, attending banquets for inner court ladies, or occasionally meeting them, she wore Cangyi; after spring rituals and returning from sacrifices, she wore Qingyi; after summer rituals and returning from sacrifices, red robes were worn; after mulberry leaf picking ceremonies or returning from such activities, yellow robes were worn; after autumn rituals and returning from sacrifices, plain-colored robes were worn; after winter rituals and returning from sacrifices, black robes were worn. lógica From Qingyi downward, the collar and cuffs followed colors in accordance with the principle of mutual generation (Xiangsheng).
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
諸公夫人九服，其翟衣翟皆九等，俱以揄翟為領褾，各九。自揄衣以下，鷩、鳪、鵫、鬏、朱、黃、素、玄等衣九也。自朱衣而下，其領褾亦用相生之色。 諸侯夫人，自鷩衣而下八；其翟衣翟皆八等，俱以鷩翟為領褾；無揄衣。 諸伯夫人，自鳪衣而下七；其翟衣翟皆七等，俱以鳪翟為領褾；又無鷩衣。 諸子夫人，自鵫衣而下六；其翟衣翟皆六等，俱以鵫翟為領褾；又無鳪衣。 諸男夫人，自鴩衣而下五；其翟衣翟皆五等，俱以鴩翟為領褾；又無鵫衣。 |
| | The wives of marquises had nine ranks of attire; their Zhaiyi robes featured nine levels of Zhai patterns, all with Yuzhai on the collar and cuffs in each of the nine variations. From Yuyi downward, there were also Bieyi, Fengyi, Jueyi, Jiuyi, Zhuyi, Huangyi, Suyi, and Xuan yi robes—nine in total. From Zhuyi downward, the colors of the collar and cuffs also followed the principle of mutual generation (xiangsheng). The wives of feudal lords had eight ranks from Bieyi downward; their Zhai patterns were divided into eight levels, all with Biezhai on the collar and cuffs; Yuyi was not included. The wives of feudal marquises had seven ranks from Fengyi downward; their Zhai patterns were categorized into seven levels, all with Fengzhai on the collar and cuffs; Bieyi was also not included. The wives of feudal princes had six ranks from Jueyi downward; their Zhai patterns were classified into six levels, all with Juezhai on the collar and cuffs; Fengyi was also not included. The wives of feudal earls had five ranks from Jiuyi downward; their Zhai patterns were ranked into five levels, all with Jiuzhai on the collar and sleeves; Jueyi was also not included.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
三妃、三公夫人之服九：鳪衣，鵫衣，鴩衣，青衣，朱衣，黃衣，素衣，玄衣，綃衣。其翟亦九等，以鳪翟為領褾，各九。 三镅、三孤之內子，自鵫衣而下八。翟皆八等，以鵫翟為領褾，各八。 六嬪、六卿之內子，自鴩衣而下七。翟皆七等，以鴩翟為領褾，各七。上媛、上大夫之孺人，自青衣而下六。 中媛、中大夫之孺人，自朱衣而下五。 下媛、下大夫之孺人，自黃衣而下四。 御婉、士之婦，自素衣而下三。 中宮六尚，緅衣。諸命秩之服曰公服，其餘常服曰私衣。 |
| | The attire of the three consorts and the wives of the Three Dukes consisted of nine types: Fengyi, Jueyi, Ju yi, Qingyi, Zhuyi, Huangyi, Suyi, Xuan yi, and Xiaoyi. Their Zhai patterns were also divided into nine levels, with Fengzhai on the collars and cuffs for each of the nine. The inner court ladies of the Three Gong and the Three Gu had eight ranks from Jueyi downward. Their Zhai patterns were all categorized into eight levels, with Juezha on the collars and sleeves for each of the eight. The inner court ladies of the Six Ping and the Six Qing had seven ranks from Ju yi downward. Their Zhai patterns were categorized into seven ranks, with Juzhai on the collars and cuffs in each of the seven. Shangyuan and Shangdaren's Ruren had six ranks from Qingyi downward. Zhongyuan and Zhongdaren's Ruren ranked five levels from Zhuyi downward. Xiaoyuan and Xiadaren's Ruren had four ranks from Huangyi downward. Nuyan and the wives of common officials ranked three levels from Suyi downward. The six Shang in the imperial palace wore zou yi. {{... The official uniforms of all ranks were called gongfu, while other regular attire was referred to as siyi.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
隋制，皇后褘衣、鞠衣、青衣、朱衣四等。 褘衣，深青質，織成領袖，文以翬翟，五采重行，十二等。素沙內單，黼領，羅縠褾、耻，色皆以朱。蔽膝隨裳色，以緅為緣，用翟三章。大帶隨衣裳，飾以朱綠之錦，青緣。革帶，青襪、舄，舄以金飾。白玉佩，玄組、綬，章采尺寸同於乘輿。祭及朝會大事服之。 鞠衣，黃羅為質，織成領袖。蔽膝，革帶及舄，隨衣色。餘准褘衣，親蠶服也。 青服，去花、大帶及佩綬，金飾履，禮見天子則服之。 朱服，如青服。 有金璽，盤螭鈕，文曰「皇后之璽」。冬正大朝，則并璜琮，各以笥貯，進於座隅。皇太后同於后服，而貴人以下並亦給印。 |
| | In the Sui dynasty, the empress's Huiyi, Juyi, Qingyi and Zhuyi formed four ranks of attire. Huiyi was made of deep blue fabric, with embroidered collars and cuffs. The pattern featured Hui and Zhai in five colors, arranged in double rows with twelve levels. The inner single-layer robe was made of plain gauze, with Fu patterned collar and embroidered borders (biao) and hems (chi), all in red. The bixi matched the color of the skirt, with zou fabric as its border and three Zhai patterns. The wide sash matched the robe and skirt in color, decorated with red and green brocade and bordered with blue. Leather waistbands were worn along with blue socks and shoes; the shoes were adorned with gold decorations. Black jade pendants, black silk cords (zu), sashes—seals, colors and dimensions were identical to those of the emperor. This attire was worn for sacrifices and major court assemblies. Juyi robes were made of yellow gauze with embroidered collars and cuffs. The bixi, leather waistband, and shoes all matched the color of the robe. Other elements followed Huiyi standards; this was the attire worn for sericulture ceremonies. The Qingfu version omitted floral patterns, wide sashes and pendants with sashes; gold-decorated shoes were worn. This was the attire for formal audiences with the Son of Heaven. Zhufu followed the same style as Qingfu. There was a golden seal with coiled dragon-shaped clasp, inscribed "Houhou zhi Xi" ("Seal of the Empress"). During major winter court assemblies, they were accompanied by Huangcong jade objects; each was stored in a bamboo basket and presented at the corner of the throne. The empress dowager wore the same attire as the empress; seals were also granted to ladies of rank below the noble concubine.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
三妃，服揄翟，金章龜鈕，文從其職。紫綬，金縷織成獸頭鞶囊，佩于闐玉。 九嬪，服闕翟，金章龜鈕，文從其職。金縷織成獸頭鞶囊，佩采詞玉。 婕妤，銀縷織成獸頭鞶囊，他如嬪服。 美人、才人，鞠衣，銀印珪鈕，獸爪鞶囊，佩水蒼玉。餘同。寶林，服展衣，艾綬。鞶囊、佩玉，同婕妤。 承衣刀人、采女，皆褖衣，無印綬。 |
| | lógica The three consorts wore Yuzhai robes and gold seals with turtle-shaped clasps, inscribed according to their respective positions. Purple sashes were worn along with embroidered animal-head pouches (pannang) in gold thread, and pendants made of Yutai jade. The nine Ping wore Quezhai robes with gold seals and turtle-shaped clasps, the inscriptions of which corresponded to their positions. Embroidered animal-head pouches in gold thread were worn along with pendants made of Cai Ci jade. Jieyu wore embroidered animal-head pouches in silver thread, otherwise following the same style as the Ping. Meiren and Cairen wore Ju Yi robes, with silver seals on jade-shaped clasps (gui niu), animal-claw pouches (shouzhua pannang), and pendants made of shui cang yu. The rest were the same. Baolin wore Zhan Yi robes and Ai Shou sashes. The pannang pouches and jade pendants were the same as those of Jieyu. Chengyidao Ren and Cai Nü all wore Tuan Yi robes, without seals or sashes.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
皇太子妃，服揄翟衣，九章。金璽龜鈕。素紗內單，黼領，羅褾、耻，色皆用朱，蔽膝二章。大帶，同褘衣，青綠革帶，朱襪，青舄，舄加金飾。佩瑜玉，纁朱綬，獸頭鞶囊。凡大禮見皆服之。唯侍親桑，則用鞠衣，佩綬與揄衣同。 良娣，鞠衣，銀印，青綬，獸爪鞶囊。餘同世婦。 寶林、八子，展衣，銅印，佩水蒼玉，艾綬。 |
| | The crown prince's consort wore Yuzhai Yi robes with nine patterns (zhang). With a golden seal and turtle-shaped clasp. A plain silk inner single-layer robe with Fu patterned collar, brocade borders and hem, all in red color; the kesi skirt had two patterns. The wide sash was the same as for Hui Yi robes; green leather belts, red socks, and blue shoes with gold decorations. They wore Yu Yu jade pendants, Xun Zhu sashes, and animal-head pannang pouches. These were worn for all major ceremonies. Only when attending the ceremony of offering mulberry leaves to the silkworm goddess would they wear Ju Yi robes, with sashes and pendants identical to those worn with Yuzhai Yi. Liangdi wore Ju Yi robes, silver seals, blue sashes, and animal-claw pannang pouches. The rest was the same as for Shifu. Baolin and Bazhi wore Zhan Yi robes, copper seals, pendants of Shui Cang Yu jade, and Ai Shou sashes.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
諸侯王太妃、妃、長公主、公主、三公夫人、一品命婦，揄翟，繡為九章。佩山玄玉，獸頭鞶囊，綬同夫色。 公夫人、縣主、二品命婦，亦揄翟，繡八章。從親桑，同鞠衣。自此以下，佩皆水蒼玉。 侯伯夫人、三品命婦，亦服揄翟，繡為七章。 子夫人、四品命婦，服闕翟，刻赤繒為翟，綴衣上，為六章。 男夫人、五品命婦，闕翟，五章。若從親蠶，皆同鞠衣。 |
| | The Taifei of feudal kings, their consorts, the elder princesses, princesses, and the spouses of the Three Dukes as well as first-rank officials all wore Yuzhai robes with embroidered nine patterns (zhang). They wore pendants of Shan Xuan Yu jade, animal-head pannang pouches, and sashes matching the color of their husbands. The spouses of Dukes, Xianzhu (county princesses), and second-rank officials also wore Yuzhai robes embroidered with eight patterns. When attending the ceremony for offering mulberry to silkworm deities, they followed the style of Ju Yi robes. From this rank downward, pendants were all made of Shui Cang Yu (water-green jade). The spouses of Houbo and third-rank officials also wore Yuzhaidi robes, embroidered with seven patterns. The spouses of Zi and fourth-rank officials wore Quezhaidi robes, with red silk embroidered as pheasants attached to the robe, forming six patterns. The spouses of Nan and fifth-rank officials wore Quezha robes with five patterns. If attending the ceremony for offering mulberries to silkworms, they all followed the style of Ju Yi.
|
| | 后妃命婦... : |
大唐制，武德令，皇后服有褘衣、鞠衣、鈿釵禮衣三等。皇太子妃揄翟鞠衣。自皇后至內外命婦衣服制度，並具開元禮序例。 |
| | According to the regulations of Datang, as stipulated in the Wude Ling, the empress had three ranks of attire: Hui Yi, Ju Yi, and Dianchai Li Yi. The crown prince's consort wore Yu Zhai Ju Yi robes. The clothing regulations for all ranks, from the empress down to internal and external officials' spouses, were fully detailed in the Kaiyuan Li Xulv (Procedures of the Kaiyuan Rites).
|